Cap-Ferrat, France
After four nights in St. Tropez this summer, we drove up the coast to spend several days in Cap-Ferrat.
The drive from St. Tropez to Cap-Ferrat took about two hours, and Cannes is located halfway between the two towns. We decided to stop there to explore and have lunch at La Mome Plage. While the food was good, it was too hot to enjoy a midday meal outside, especially after a while on the road. I would love to go back for the film festival, but I’m not sure I would recommend that others stop by on their way to Cap-Ferrat—it made for an exceptionally long travel day. That being said, if you love to shop luxury brands, the stores in Cannes are fabulous.
Tip— I have heard that La Guerite, a beach club and restaurant accessible by boat, is a great option if you're staying in Cannes or Cap-Ferrat.
Hotels
I have always heard good things about two properties in the region: Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Cap d’Antibes and the Grand Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, a Four Seasons property. My first choice was Hotel du Cap, but they didn’t have any availability for our dates. The Grand Hotel happened to have space, so we booked two deluxe rooms there.
Walking in, I was a bit underwhelmed. The lobby was all-white and dated, with a handful of shops that gave it a tacky feel.
Our rooms were located outside the main building, accessible via an outdoor hallway with a distinctly 70s Miami vibe—coral-colored stucco and painted flowers. While the area felt dated during the day, the exterior lighting at night transformed it into something much prettier. The light wood doors to the rooms, however, clashed with the hallway’s design.
Inside, the room was all white except for a mint green sofa, reminiscent of my grandparents’ Miami apartment in the 70s. The white lacquer furniture and built-ins were attractive but nothing remarkable. The small closet lacked functionality, and the bathroom was so narrow that two people couldn’t comfortably use it at the same time. Overall, it was a fine room, just not the most beautiful or practical.
Although I didn’t get a chance to see the interior of the pool suites, they seemed ideal for families with young children, as accessing the pool from the main building can be a bit of a trek. Guests have the option to either walk down a winding staircase or take a funicular.
The pool itself was beautiful, with different levels of terraces and seating. We chose to sit by the pool, as it was so hot that we were constantly in and out of the water. The upper levels and cabanas, while further from the pool, likely allowed for more privacy. From what I gathered, you can use the pool and its restaurant by paying a guest fee (as in, you don’t need to be staying at the hotel). This made the pool pretty crowded. I found that the lounge chairs were far too close together, too.
The service at the pool was amazing. They passed around mini smoothie shots and had phone chargers available (a great amenity, especially when you are far from your room!). The restaurant served delicious Mediterranean cuisine, which could be enjoyed at the poolside restaurant or from the comfort of your lounge chair.
Tip— if you like gelato, the pool menu has amazing mini cones they can bring to your lounge chair. They really hit the sweet spot at 4 pm!
The hotel's breakfast was fine—average at best—with a small buffet and an a la carte menu. It was served outside, and we had to sit with the bee deterrent (terracotta bowls releasing black smoke of some kind) wafting over us. I didn’t find that to be particularly enjoyable.
On our final night, we ate dinner at the Four Seasons’ Michelin-star restaurant Le Cap. The service was lovely, and the food was good. That being said, Le Cap shares a patio with La Veranda, the hotel’s more casual restaurant. It just felt a bit awkward to have a formal, Michelin-level meal alongside diners having more casual cuisine. I also didn’t find the dishes to be all that memorable.
For a hotel at this level, the indoor gym was a disappointment. Crowded, cramped, and no windows. At 8 AM, people were tripping over each other to get to equipment. I did check out their ‘outdoor gym,’ which is a raised structure surrounded by mosquito netting with a few machines, weights, and other exercise gear. Encircled by a kind of garden, I definitely recommend working out there rather than at the indoor facilities. I would have done that myself, but it was so incredibly hot—even in the mornings.
The Four Seasons does have an outdoor tennis court as well as spa facilities (steam room, sauna, and small indoor pool). The spa also had a nice boutique where the pieces were pretty and the prices decent.
Overall, I would not return to the Four Seasons in Cap-Ferrat. Despite gorgeous views and excellent service, the property felt dated and didn’t have enough to do for an active family. That being said, I think we were there for too long—this is a two-night stay kind of place, rather than the four we spent there.
Restaurants
One night we ate dinner at Ambrosia, a charming Italian restaurant beside the port serving delicious pizza and pasta.
Our favorite was Olivula, where we sat directly on the water. It was fairly casual, and the waiters were chatty and fun. Most importantly, the food was amazing. The truffled risotto is a must!
We passed by Chateau Eza in the village of Eze and took a look inside. The view was beautiful, but the decor of the hotel and restaurant itself was stodgy. Probably a skip for me… unless you have heard mindblowing compliments about the food!
Activities
We loved driving to explore the different towns in the area. One of our favorites was Eze, which has a historic old village. I recommend going on the earlier side to beat the tourists; several buses pulled up right around 9 AM. The village was charming—cobblestone streets, jaw-dropping views—and only took about half an hour to tour.
Other day trips include Cannes and Monaco. As I mentioned above, the heat made Cannes a little uncomfortable. I recommend going for an event, like the film festival, but otherwise I wouldn’t stay for multiple nights. Monaco is about a half hour from Cap-Ferrat. While beautiful, it was a little too touristy for me. Again, it was August… so we were definitely seeing it at peak season.
Tip— Definitely rent a car when you arrive at the hotel. The prices are significantly less than those booked beforehand through a travel agent or service, plus the car options were better.
My family also played golf one morning at Monte-Carlo Golf Club, a thirty-minute drive from our hotel. They didn’t find the course to be very well-kept, so I recommend seeking out other courses in the area.
Tip— I have heard that there is a bike path that runs from Nice to Cap-Ferrat! A friend went on an electric bike and said the views were stunning.
I asked the concierge if there was any jetskiing in the area. They kindly set us up for an hour-long session with a private company. It wasn’t the most organized process—we ended up waiting for forty minutes to get on the jet skis—but it was very fun, and I definitely recommend it!
All in all…
While I found the region to be breathtaking, my stay at the Four Seasons Grand Hotel in Cap-Ferrat didn’t live up to my expectations. I’d definitely consider checking out Cap d'Antibes in the future, but I am not in a rush to go back.
