St. Tropez

This July, we stayed for four nights at a new boutique hotel in St. Tropez. We had been once before—years ago—and only spent the day. This time around, we truly got to experience the town and all it has to offer.

 

Getting There


​​Reaching the South of France was a bit of an adventure from the start. After our United flight was canceled, we switched to La Compagnie, a boutique airline that only offers business-class seating. Our experience with them was a bit of a mixed bag—the staff, while kind, was very disorganized. 

 

On the day of our departure, the La Compagnie plane we were taking was unable to land at Newark because of a storm. The employees told us that the next flight to Nice was four days later, so they booked us on a flight leaving for Paris that day. At the gate for the new flight, we found out that our original flight to Nice was indeed going to take off after all, and they wouldn’t let us switch back. It was very chaotic, and the staff apologized profusely. 

The plane itself seemed understaffed, with only two or three attendants on board. In Paris Orly, we had to change terminals to reach an Air France connection to Nice. That was pretty miserable, as we were hustling with our suitcases in 90-degree heat. In the future, I would definitely opt for Delta or Air France over La Compagnie.

When we finally reached Nice, we met our pre-arranged driver, who then took us the two hours to St. Tropez.

 

Hotels


While planning this trip, I looked into several hotel options. We were bringing our two young adult boys with us, so I thought it would be best to stay within walking distance of town, as they like to stay out on the later side. I came across the AREV and fell in love with how fresh and exciting it was in terms of design. Some of the executive team had come from another beautiful property in St. Tropez, so I suspected it would be well run despite how new it was. We were beyond thrilled with our stay there. 

 

AREV St. Tropez opened this past March and is the first of the collection’s properties. From the moment we arrived, I was struck by its charm. The exterior, with its cream-colored walls and blue shutters, recalls the elegance of a Provencal estate. Inside, Luis Bustamante's design blends French sophistication with Hamptons chic. With a gorgeous color palette of red, navy, and cream, the hotel, in many ways, feels like the interior of a luxury yacht.

As of August, there are 43 rooms and suites, with plans to add ten more by next summer. The rooms vary in size and location, so I recommend discussing your preferences with the hotel or your travel representative. That being said, the property is very small—no matter what room you are in, you could easily be at the pool or the lobby within a minute.

During my stay, I toured several rooms, and I found that they all use the same color palette but vary the details—some feature striped wallpaper while others have toile, for instance. Everything feels purposeful and hand-picked, from the lacquered closets to the yellow-and-white-striped shampoo bottles. 

We stayed in Room 5, a junior suite in the main building with a patio. It was a beautiful space—white sofas with red piping, wide-set wood floors with inset rugs, and simple but beautiful artwork. The room felt fresh, vibrant, and happy, and each surface offered a visual treat. The only aspect I did not love was the bathroom: it had a ‘wet’ room setup, with a tub and small shower sharing the same space, that felt rather cramped. Our room also featured an outdoor patio with umbrellas and lounge chairs, ideal for relaxing. That being said, we were there in August, and it was so hot that we didn’t really make use of it. 

In addition to rooms in the main hotel, the AREV has several poolside suites available. I checked out suite 19 and adored it, with its high ceilings and spacious layout. They also had separate tubs and showers. If you don’t mind climbing stairs, I recommend considering a second-floor pool villa. 

The small details truly make this property shine. We were there during the Olympics and asked where we could watch; to our surprise, two large-screen TVs were cleverly hidden in the lobby behind what appeared to be built-in bookshelves. I wanted to take everything home, from the custom checkered placemats to the colorful glasses. 

 

The breakfast, lunch, and in-room dining were all excellent. However, I found the dinner menu could have used more variety, though the service was a solid 10/10. For a hotel that just opened, I was thoroughly impressed. The staff, from concierges to the pool attendants, were incredibly attentive, making it feel more like a stay in a private villa than a hotel.

There are a few things to be aware of, though. The hotel has no formal check-in desk, so if you need assistance, you have to approach someone walking around. While there was always someone available, it wasn’t immediately clear who the concierge was. While the gym was beautiful–large windows, lots of light—it could use a few more accessories. 

The pool was beautiful and spacious. On one end was a gorgeous bar and two communal cabanas that offered backgammon and games. The water was kept at a perfect 80 degrees, which was ideal for that weather. 

A highlight for our family was the padel court on the property. My boys love padel, and while it’s just becoming trendy in the US, it’s been popular in Europe for some time. The hotel arranged for a terrific instructor, and I recommend playing when it is cooler (either before 10 AM or after 7 PM). Going from evening padel to a late dinner was a great way to structure the night. 

Getting into town is easy—just a 10-minute walk, or you can use the hotel’s electric bikes, shuttle service, or adorable Moke.

One suggestion I have is that the hotel adds a little treat during turndown service. Given the intimate atmosphere of the property, a small nightly treat would be a fun touch. At departure, we received lovely leather gifts: an orange credit card case, a blue leather pouch, and fun red baseball caps with the hotel logo.

In summary, I’d rate the hotel a perfect 10/10, with just a few minor areas for improvement.

Tip – I heard that an AREV Miami is in the works… and even though Florida isn’t my favorite, I would definitely visit!

 

Beach Clubs & Lunches


When making lunch reservations at the beach clubs in St. Tropez, choosing the right time is key to getting the kind of atmosphere you want. 

For a more relaxed vibe, book a table for around 12:30 PM. If you’re looking to join the party crowd, opt for 3:30 PM. The beach clubs vary in their energy: Bagatelle, Indie Beach, and Le Club 55 are known for their lively party scenes, while Lou Lou and La Réserve a la Plage are more laid-back.  With its beachfront setting, exceptional service, and familiar music, Lou Lou was my favorite. I felt much more at home there than listening to the EDM at Indie Beach!

As for the food, most beach clubs offer similar menus—think pizzas, pastas, fresh fish, tartares, and ceviches, with a few meat options. The beaches in St. Tropez, however, are much more narrow than those in the Caribbean or Mexico. In August, it can get a little cramped, with lounge chairs practically packed together. While there were always umbrellas and daybeds available, the heat and crowds were unavoidable. Probably best to think of them as just part of the experience!

Tips— If you’re heading to lunch at a beach club, be sure to reserve a sun bed for before or after your meal.

St. Tropez isn’t the most kid-friendly destination unless your children are in their late teens or older—day drinking and the party scene are a big part of the experience.

To avoid a wait, WhatsApp your hotel 30 minutes before you want to leave the beach club so they can arrange a driver or taxi. The beach clubs are typically a 15-20 minute drive from town, depending on where you’re staying. 

 
 
 

To Do: Shopping, Strolling, and Boat Rentals


If you’re a fan of luxury shopping, St. Tropez won’t disappoint. Every major designer has an outpost there, so strolling through town is a delight. Walking to the port to check out the yachts is also fun, though I found the stores and restaurants in that area to be more touristy than elsewhere. 

 

On Tuesdays and Saturdays, there is a food and garment market in town. When we went, it was very hot and crowded, and we found the experience to be disappointing. They did have some good produce—great cheese, interesting food vendors—but overall, it was a B. Lots of fake designer bags!

Tip— Don’t miss the boutiques inside the beach clubs! They have anything you could need for your time in St. Tropez: gorgeous bags, beach dresses, bathing suits, and cover-ups. Throughout the summer, they also feature pop-ups with certain brands.

If you are visiting with a group, renting a boat for the day is a great way to enjoy St. Tropez. There are plenty of options available, and I found that booking directly through the hotel was significantly cheaper than going through a travel agent or boat broker.

 

Dinners & Nightlife


 

Dinner in St. Tropez didn’t quite live up to my expectations. With most lunches at 3:30 PM, I wasn’t particularly hungry by 10 PM, and the restaurants we tried left something to be desired. Cucina at Hotel Byblos, for instance, was disappointing—the courtyard setting was pretty, but the food was subpar and the atmosphere quiet. BanH-Hoi was the one exception, serving Japanese, Thai, and Vietnamese on a charming cobblestone street. 

I’ve heard good things about Gigi and La Vague d'Or at the Cheval Blanc Hotel, though we didn’t make it there on this trip. I also noticed some beautiful vineyards along the way to the beach clubs, and some offer lunch and wine tastings—definitely something to consider if you have more time.

For nightlife, I highly recommend making a reservation at Les Caves, especially on a Friday or Saturday night (though I’m sure it’ll be busy on any night during peak season). The party starts to pick up around 1:30 AM, and it’s geared toward a 20-something crowd. That being said, anyone could go and have a blast!

 
 
 

All in all…


I would definitely return to St. Tropez, maybe with a group of friends or other couples. AREV was a dream of a hotel, and I would happily stay there again. Next time, I’d visit during a cooler, quieter time in the season for an even better experience. Despite the heat and crowds, we had a great time. I hope AREV opens locations in areas I haven’t yet been to in the next few years… I would jump at the chance to stay at one of their properties again.

 
 
Previous
Previous

Cap-Ferrat, France

Next
Next

A Taste of NYC…