Lech, Austria
Although we’re only a few weeks into summer, I’m sure many of us are looking to get a jump on December vacation plans. If you’re a ski-lover wanting a destination that is off the beaten track, I have the perfect place: Lech, Austria.
I first learned about Lech from Robyn Mark and Monique Thofte of MayaMaya Travel, based in NYC. My family was looking for a European ski mountain with good conditions, authentic food, and a charming town. We typically ski out west but had been to Megeve, France years before. While I found Megeve to be beautiful, my husband and sons (diehard skiers) didn’t think the mountain was up to par. We had heard that because of the elevation, the skiing in Lech was excellent—so we decided to take the leap.
We took a painless overnight flight from Dulles to Zurich. From the Zurich airport, we took a car service to Lech, a two-hour drive away. If you have never been to Zurich or Geneva, it is worth spending your first or final night there—they are both great cities that don’t require more than a day or so to explore.
Hotels
We stayed at the Aurelio, a boutique hotel and chalet in the heart of town. With wood-paneled walls and furnishings, it managed to be both cozy and chic. Our room, an Aurelio suite, was spacious and had a balcony that overlooked the town and mountain. The bathroom included a soaking tub, which is always a plus when you spend the day hiking/skiing!
A surprising highlight of the Aurelio was its spa and pool facility. Located on the hotel’s lower level, the facility’s glass partitions provided a wonderful, open feel with lots of light, but it didn’t compromise functionality. The cold plunge, sauna, and steam room were located directly next to each other, making for easy contrast therapy. It was extremely well done, and it is still among my favorite spa amenities to date.
The service at the Aurelio was a 10/10; they truly went out of their way to ensure our comfort. During our stay, for instance, I was dealing with a stye that needed hot compresses every few hours. The staff provided them (heated to the perfect temperature!) and made the experience as painless as possible.
Next door to the Aurelio is the Almhof Schneider. I visited for a drink and found it to be stunning, a mixture of rustic and modern touches—think exposed wood, elegant moldings, and understated colors. The bar had a great vibe and buzzing crowd, far more crowded than that at the Aurelio. The Almhof Schneider also has Sonnenhof, a six-bedroom chalet available for rent that includes daily housekeeping, breakfast, and access to the hotel’s amenities. I haven’t seen it in person, but it looks ideal for a larger party or a guest wanting more privacy. For a future trip, I would definitely consider staying at the Sonnenhof, the Almhof Schneider, or the Aurelio again.
Dining
Aurelio’s, the hotel’s restaurant, serves breakfast and dinner in a cozy, intimate dining room. The breakfast menu was limited, but they were happy to make you anything you wanted. Dinners consisted largely of traditional Austrian cuisine, so plenty of meats and cheeses. The vibe at Aurelio’s, both the restaurant and hotel in general, was very quiet. If a lively social scene on-property is important to you, Aurelio might not be the best choice. That being said, there are plenty of bars and clubs within walking distance.
One of my favorite spots for dinner was Schneggarei, a modern take on an Alpine restaurant. Cool and casual, it was perfect for families. They even served a phenomenal pizza.
Gasthaus Alpele is a must-do for the experience. We were picked up via CAT and driven out into the wilderness to reach the restaurant, which is essentially a wooden hut. The food was good, but the real highlight was the adventure of getting there.
Located in a tiny, historic house in town, Hus 8 was authentic in regard to feel and food. The waitresses waltzed around in traditional Austrian garb serving classic dishes like cheese soup and duck. If you are looking for a down-to-earth experience that captures traditional dining in Austria, this is it!
Fux was one of the more formal dinner options—think white tablecloths and candles, not so much the cozy, European ski feel. That being said, the food was good, and it was nice to change it up from the traditional restaurants we had been going to.
As is the case with most European ski towns, Lech didn’t disappoint when it came to lunches. The food was delicious, the vibe fun. I recommend asking to eat outside to take advantage of the views!
Rud-Alpe is a traditional rustic eatery beside the Schlegelkopf slope. With a wine list a mile long, it makes for a relaxed apres spot—and there is even live music!
For the best fondue, head to Alter Goldener Berg. This hotel had a charming restaurant and two massive terraces, making it a great place to stop for lunch mid-ski day.
If you’re craving Italian food, I recommend checking out Bergkristall. This hotel's terrace serves elevated Italian-Austrian cuisine with a great view.
Schlegelkopf is a more modern ski restaurant located on the mountain itself. It offers great rooftop views and sashimi—-what more could you ask for?
We had a drink at Hospiz Alm, a restaurant in a small town called St. Christoph, one afternoon after being rerouted by an avalanche (more on that later). It had a cozy, Alpine feel but was otherwise unremarkable—at least, that is what I thought until they showed us the wine cellar. It had an unbelievable collection of huge wine bottles as well as a secondary cellar called the wine dome. There was one notable rule: if you purchase a bottle, you must finish it on the property. You can leave it behind, however, and they will hold it until the next time you visit. Even if you aren’t the biggest wine person, I highly recommend stopping by. It was just that cool. Be sure to check out IG for photos—my description doesn’t do it justice.
The Town
Lech is a charming, quintessential European ski town. The people are friendly and laidback, perhaps more so than at other mountains in the region. It is the kind of place where everyone knows everyone; guests come back year after year to ski and enjoy the town. This manifests in day-to-day interactions–the people are amiable, the vibe relaxed–as well as the apres scene. While there are a few places that offer apres ski, it is much more lowkey than somewhere like Courchevel.
Activities
The high elevation in this region makes for great skiing. The slopes are well-groomed, and there is plenty of opportunity to go off-piste. My husband and sons, all passionate skiers, loved it. With so many options of different mountains/areas available, it is very ‘choose your own adventure.’ The region is dotted with adorable little villages, so there’s a good chance you might stumble across a hidden gem somewhere! Something we loved, especially compared to the skiing in the US, was how uncrowded it felt. The chairlift lines were all reasonable, and, even with other skiers around, it never felt as though we were on top of one another.
Tip— when skiing in Lech, I recommend wearing avalanche beacons. Ours were provided by our guides, but I am sure they can also be purchased in town.
The hiking was also incredible. It felt very safe, and it was easy to meet up with the skiers for lunch.
It is worth noting that Lech is the kind of town where you carry your own equipment to the mountain—ie, it is not the Aman in Courcheval, where the staff assists with your boots. The Aurelio had a ski room, but you are responsible for handling all of your own equipment.
On one afternoon, one of our guides took us to Sport Park Lech, an athletic facility, to play tennis. It was a great change of pace, and it seems they also offer cycling, badminton, and other activities.
Aside from ski basics, there isn’t much to browse when it comes to shopping in Lech. Strolz had a solid selection of equipment, and our process of securing rental gear was painless.
Guides
What really made this particular trip amazing were the two guides that the hotel concierge arranged for us. Tom Vau and Veronika Leichtfried are some of our favorite guides we’ve ever had, both incredible people and true professionals. Tom (an unbelievable ski guide as well as a talented artist and photographer) spent his time skiing with my husband and two boys. Veronika (also a skiing instructor who was even hired to train other guides in Japan) took me hiking up the many ski trails throughout the day. The hiking was phenomenal, and a favorite trail of mine led up to a James Turrell installation on the mountain. If you're interested in their contact info, send an email or direct message via Instagram!
Durig our stay, there was an avalanche on one of the mountains. We happened to be skiing in another area, and our guides went to assist in rescue efforts. Thankfully, no one was hurt. The fact that everyone was okay is a huge testament to the skill of the staff and guides.
Lech is for guests who want top-notch skiing and a laidback vibe. That being said, it might not be the best trip to do with young children: you are carrying your own equipment and moving around to different skiing locations frequently in Lech. At other mountains, the hotels may be more involved in logistics and the handling of gear. With little kids, the latter is definitely ideal!
We loved Lech, particularly the ski conditions and our amazing guides. I would definitely go back, ideally with a big group. Renting a chalet with another family or several couples would be fun.
