Just Back From: Martha’s Vineyard
For this interview, I spoke with a repeat guest of the Harbor View Hotel in Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard who stayed there this past June. It was her and her family’s fourth time at the Martha’s Vineyard, but she has been visiting Cape Cod, Block Island, and surrounding beach towns in the Northeast since childhood.
Getting there:
From the suburbs of NYC, there are three primary ways to get to Martha’s Vineyard. This time around, we drove four hours to the Steamship Authority Ferry out of Woods Hole on Cape Cod. We chose this ferry because it allows cars, and we booked a reservation in advance. The trip across the water was about forty-five minutes.
In past years, we have driven two hours to Quonset Point, Rhode Island, and taken the Martha’s Vineyard Fast Ferry, which is about seventy-five minutes long. We left our car in a secure lot designated for ferry riders beside the port.
Delta and JetBlue also offer nonstop flights from New York to Martha’s Vineyard, which takes about an hour.
Once you arrive at the marina or airport, you can easily get a cab to Edgartown, where the hotel is located. The ride isn’t more than twenty minutes.
On the Harbor View’s interior design & decor:
I would describe the Harbor View as tasteful and polished, with lots of neutral tones and blues. It feels more like an inn than a hotel. There are nautical motifs throughout, but it never feels kitschy. The exterior is that traditional shingle style you see so often in Cape Cod, and the building has a beautiful wrap-around porch where guests have coffee.
On the room:
As with previous stays, our room this past trip was spacious and had nice decor, like wood accents and beautiful upholstery. However, we were very disappointed with the view—-it overlooked the blacktop roof of the lower level of the building. We asked to change rooms, but they didn’t have anything available. While booking, I highly recommend making sure you are not in room #214. The other times we’ve been here, we’ve had beautiful views of the water.
One year, we stayed in one of the Captain’s Cottages, which are a set of condo-like residences in a grassy area behind the pool. They range from one to three bedrooms and come with a kitchenette, sitting and dining area, and often a private balcony. We were in a two-bedroom unit that we loved. You definitely don’t need a kitchenette in Edgartown, but it was nice to have the extra space. Guests get access to all of the hotel amenities.
On the hotel’s pool and gym amenities:
The Harbor View Hotel has a beautiful courtyard pool lined by white umbrellas and cabanas with cantaloupe trim. We’ve never found it to be crowded or had to go early in the morning to reserve lounge chairs. Also on the patio is The Roxana, the pool restaurant and bar. It is the perfect place to spend the day. My one complaint is that on the Friday we were there, landscapers were working on the garden from 11:00 - 1:00. The noise of the weed wacker and lawnmowers didn’t make for a very enjoyable experience.
The gym at the hotel is quite small and a little outdated. It does the job but is nothing special.
One of the best amenities at the Harbor View is the bikes. They are complimentary and adorable, with little baskets that you can store your purchases in while riding around town.
On the hotel’s location:
The Harbor View is on the edge of the main shopping area in Edgartown. It is the perfect location, as you are removed from the thick of all the bustle but still have easy access to town. You are right on the most beautiful beach, and the lighthouse is a two-minute walk away. The hotel provides you with chairs, towels, and everything you need.
On the town:
Edgartown is spectacular, by far one of the most beautiful places in the world. It is a historic whaling town lined with beautiful white houses, many of which have been preserved for centuries. There are lots of gardens, white picket fences, streetlamps, brick roads, traditional porches, etc. Roses and hydrangeas are everywhere. It is quaint and charming without being stuffy.
Breakfast:
In Edgartown, we eat breakfast at the same place religiously: Among the Flowers. It is a down-to-earth cafe where you order at the counter and then eat in the garden area. It might be my favorite spot in town. Their yogurt bowls are a big hit with us.
If you want a quick coffee or something to go, check out Behind the Bookstore.
Lunch and dinner:
The Harbor View Hotel’s main restaurant is Bettini. The design is very much a traditional New England dining room, with red banquets, nautical motifs, and lots of dark blues. To be honest, it’s a little dark for me, but the food is decent.
A Martha’s Vineyard staple, L’Etoile serves gourmet dishes in an elegant but understated environment. Like many restaurants in Edgartown, the menu is seasonal. The specials are something to consider—I had the lobster in stew sauce the last time we visited. It was divine.
Atria is the perfect place for a group dinner, especially if said group is a handful of 20-somethings looking to go out afterward. The main dining room is elegant but relaxed, serving seafood and great burgers, but the real highlight is the Brick Cellar bar downstairs. It is such a fun spot with a DJ, dancing, and lots of cocktails. Be sure to check out their espresso martini menu—my kids love ‘The Thin Mint’ and ‘The Sasha Fierce.’
With stunning views of the harbor and nautical kitsch everywhere, The Seafood Shanty is the classic spot for casual drinks or dinner. This is probably the most casual dinner spot in Edgartown.
Two years ago, we had a sunset dinner at the Outermost in Aquinnah, about a forty-five-minute drive from Edgartown. The inn is on a tall hill with nothing but grass and trees around, so the view is stunning. I remember the service being very slow, but that could have changed in the time since we went. Before dinner, you can visit the historic Gay Head Lighthouse located on that side of the island. It was the island’s first lighthouse.
The Sweet Life in Oak Bluffs is a Martha’s Vineyard classic. We went after reading that the Obamas (who own a house on the island) had been, and we loved it. The outdoor area is beneath a white tent with string lights all around, making it feel like a special experience.
Alchemy and Detente are other dinner staples in Edgartown that we have visited a few times. Both have a polished vibe and delicious food. I recommend dining outside at Detente, which has seating available in a beautiful outdoor courtyard.
Dessert:
You can’t go wrong with ice cream in Edgartown. Our favorite is Vineyard Scoops (their Mud Pie flavor in particular), with Mad Martha’s Homemade and The Scoop Shack tying for second. If you’re looking for a fun gift to bring home, check out Murdick’s Fudge.
Activities:
We love exploring the town by bike or foot. There are plenty of cute boutiques, mom-and-pop shops, art galleries, and museums to wander into. Some favorites include Edgartown Books, The Black Dog General Store, and Salte, which has a fun collection of home and lifestyle pieces. The Vineyard Vines shop might be an obligatory stop, as the brand was founded on the island. It is so nice to wander around and browse with ice cream or coffee in hand.
Sitting on the beaches near the Harbor View or walking over to the lighthouse is a fun and convenient activity. They are harbor beaches, so there aren’t any big waves (a plus if you are with little kids), and the scenery is gorgeous.
Other nearby beaches include Chappaquiddick and South Beach. Chappaquiddick is a twenty-minute bike ride from Edgartown, and you take a tiny ferry across with your bikes—literally, the ferry can fit one car and a handful of people. It is no hassle. South Beach allows cars to drive on the beach, so we rented a Jeep one morning and spent the day there. Having the Jeep with the pickup bed in the back makes it easy to transport beach supplies. The hotel can provide you with chairs, umbrellas, towels, etc., whether you are using the beach beside the property or one of the ones further away.
On the other guests:
It is a pretty diverse mix. Families, young couples, older couples… you see it all. There is a casual nightlife that works for twenty-somethings and teenagers, but it is by no means ‘party-central’ or conducive to a spring break crowd. Many of the guests have been coming back for decades, and they just love the polished, refined feel of the island. Everyone is very friendly and kind.
Tips and tricks for first-time visitors:
Make reservations for dinners in advance.
Get to the ferry early if you are bringing your car; they sell out. That being said, if you plan on staying mostly around Edgartown, you definitely don’t need a car.
Sometimes, flights or ferries are canceled because of storms. This has happened to us twice, and the hotel gave us a credit both times. Definitely ask about this policy while booking.
If you aren’t staying at The Harbor View Hotel. You can rent a bike from Wheel Happy in town.
I recommend going earlier in the season–think May or early June–rather than July or August to take advantage of lower rates and fewer crowds.
