Just Back From: Santa Monica Proper

For this installment, I spoke with a repeat visitor to the Santa Monica Proper in Los Angeles, California. A born and bred New Yorker, this guest has stayed at three different Santa Monica hotels in the past two years. Here, we discussed the Proper in-depth and touched on Shutters on the Beach and the Fairmont Miramar.

On what she was looking for in a hotel:

I wanted a hotel that was not so much a ‘home base' for exploring LA but somewhere I could spend most of my trip relaxing and working. I wanted surroundings that I would relish being in, even if I was just sitting and doing work on my computer.

On the Santa Monica Proper:

The Proper is a stunning, five-star hotel in prime Santa Monica, with its design and architecture being the main treat. Renovated in 2019, it was entirely designed by Kelly Wearstler. She opted for a modernist meets coastal style, full of exposed wood, contrasting textures, and tonal colors. It is also a study in minimalist meets maximalist, with the tone changing as you walk through. The lobby is a dark oak floor with simple white walls, many of which are curved–giving it this kind of character you don’t often see in interior architecture. The main lounge, tucked away behind the lobby, demonstrates her love for the eclectic: leather couches, mid-century lamps, and brutalist art. Some might say it feels a little busy, but it is a real treat to take in.

On the room: 

I stayed in a deluxe balcony king room. It shared the same elements as the hotel’s shared spaces: tonal colors, rattan wallpaper, and modernist furniture. Design-wise, it didn’t knock my socks off, but it was a very nice room with sleek, functional features. 

I did find some parts of the design to be a bit of a letdown. My room was lined with wood veneers, which gave it a kind of tacky feel. Another disappointment was that the view was of the parking lot. 

 
 

On the location:

The location is great. It is in prime Santa Monica, near plenty of stores and shops but not on a crazy crowded strip. Five blocks from the beach, it is the perfect balance of central but not in the thick of things. In general, I prefer a hotel that is right on the water, but the beach in Santa Monica can get a little zoo-like—the Proper is removed from all that annoying bustle.

 

On the pool:

The rooftop pool is gorgeous. A perfect escape with kind attendants and a great view. Very serene, too—no crazy kids running around. 

On the gym:

The gym was a treat. It had two rooms with plenty of machines: treadmills, a Peloton bike, a Peloton tread, a Stairmaster, and even a reformer. The rooms had wood floors, big windows, and plenty of natural sunlight. It was probably the best hotel gym I’ve seen.

On the hotel’s restaurants: 

Palma, the restaurant on the first floor, serves a Californian take on New American fare for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Visually, it is stunning—an expansive room with a bar, alcoves, and a portioned-off section called ‘The Grotto.’ The Grotto is one of my favorite spaces in the hotel. Essentially a library, the walls are lined with the books Wearstler used for inspiration in designing the hotel. It is the perfect quiet space to have coffee and do work. Food-wise, I had one actual meal at Palma: the black garlic caesar. 7/10. The menu didn’t seem all that enticing to me, so I recommend hitting Palma for coffee or some light bites.

 
 

For a fun vibe and a better menu, go instead to Calabra. On the hotel rooftop, it is an open-air Mediterranean restaurant with table and bar seating. Visually, like the rest of the hotel, it is gorgeous: a central, circular bar wrapped in dark wood, and around that bar are high tops and tables tucked between lush plants. Over the course of my stay, I tried their watermelon feta salad, fattoush salad, and Greek salad. All were absolutely phenomenal, but if I had to pick a favorite, it would be the watermelon feta. I wish I had tried more of the menu items—they all looked so good that I couldn’t choose. The mezze sampler is the perfect thing to split with friends over cocktails, and another guest told me the salmon tartar with tzatziki was the best she’d ever had.

On nearby restaurants: 

For brunch and lunch, Ivy at the Shore is the place. The interior is beautiful, with light pink walls and colorful accents, and the food is delicious. 

 

My absolute top recommendation for dinner near the Santa Monica Proper is Dudley Market in Venice. They serve freshly caught seafood paired with delicious wine. I had the hamachi crudo and some kind of scallop dish—two of the best meals I’ve had in my life, definitely the best in the last few years. The burgers are famously good, too. Reservations book up far in advance, so get on it!

For another spot in Venice, check out Belle’s Beach House for delicious Hawaiian food and a fun, youthful scene. It is perfect for a late-night dinner if you plan on hitting the town after

Elephante has an incredible view of the sunset and great food. Our favorite dishes were the grilled octopus and spicy vodka pasta. 

 Great White is a chic but casual cafe in Venice that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  I recommend stopping by for some of their share plates and a cocktail or two. 

On Shutters on the Beach:

Design-wise, Shutters recalls a New England beach house, something you might find in Nantucket or Cape Cod. The inside has a polished, sophisticated feel, and our room was very nice but didn’t blow us away.

 

Shutters felt more like a family hotel than the Proper. The pool, in particular, didn’t have that same serene vibe, although we did find sitting on their balcony at sunset very relaxing. They also have a lovely outdoor space beside the lobby—perfect for a reception or a late-night drink.

The main draw of staying at Shutters is that it is right on the beach. The water is gorgeous, but like I said before, I find the beach in Santa Monica to be a bit crowded. I prefer to be removed from the bustle and stay somewhere like the Proper. 

We had a lovely stay at Shutters. The staff, especially the concierge, was helpful and attentive. If you are a fan of the coastal New England aesthetic and want to be on the beach while in Santa Monica, it is the perfect place for you.

On the Fairmont Miramar:

I would definitely opt to stay at Shutters or the Proper over the Fairmont Miramar. While it is an iconic hotel, I found it to be in need of a refresh in terms of a design. The lobby is decent and has a fun bar, but the two wings of the hotel—one that houses a coffee shop among other stores, the other the conference/party spaces—felt corporate and mid-level mall-like.

 

We stayed in one of the bungalows, and the room was modern but sterile, with a pop of color here or there. Apparently the rooms on higher floors have amazing views of the ocean, but it is not right on the beach, like with Shutters. You have to cross Ocean Ave and the Pacific Coast Highway.  

One thing I did love about the Fairmont Miramar is their entryway. Called Moreton Bay Circle, the driveway runs through a kind of courtyard that houses a century-old Moreton Bay tree. It is an absolute treat to look at. While I recommend staying at the Proper or Shutters, definitely stop by FIG, the Fairmont’s restaurant, for a drink and check out the tree!

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A Weekend in Nantucket!