A Weekend in Nantucket!
A few weekends ago, I visited Nantucket for the first time and stayed at the White Elephant. Having never been to any coastal New England vacation spot before, I had no idea what to expect. Nantucket felt like a mix between an all-American beach town and a Caribbean island: laid-back vibes with plenty of restaurants, charming shops, and crowds. That being said, it lacked the go-karts, arcades, and mini golf places you find at the Jersey Shore or Delaware beaches, which I didn't miss all that much!
Something of note— July and August, when we visited, are peak season in Nantucket. If you can’t stand lines and crowds, I recommend going in late May, June, or early September instead.
Getting There
Depending on where you are coming from, there are a few different ways to get to Nantucket. United, American, Delta, and JetBlue offer direct commercial flights from the NY, DC, Philadelphia, and Boston areas to Nantucket. You can also fly to the island via private charter. Tradewind Aviation offers scheduled service to the island from some NY airports, such as Westchester and Teterboro.
Nantucket's airport can be challenging due to fog and winds, but locals say the fog usually lifts by late morning—so flights after 12 PM are generally okay. However, it can get tricky if you need to leave the island for an urgent matter or without warning. If you have work on Monday, for instance, I would recommend planning to leave early on Sunday, rather than Sunday evening as you might do typically. This way, you can adapt to any bad weather.
Some ferry options…
The Steamship Authority Ferry departs from Hyannis, MA. Their high-speed ferry, which does not accommodate cars, reaches Nantucket in an hour. The traditional ferry allows cars and takes about two hours.
Tip— If you plan to take the traditional ferry with your car, you should book a reservation in advance, as vehicle space is limited.
Hy-Line Cruises is another high-speed ferry leaving from Hyannis. It also has inter-island service, shuttling guests to and from Oak Bluffs in Martha’s Vineyard.
Freedom Cruise Line offers an eighty-minute ride from Harwich Port to Nantucket. It advertises itself as less of a parking/traffic headache than departing from Hyannis.
Seastreak has high-speed ferries departing from New Bedford, MA, and the ride takes a little over an hour and a half.
Tip— Even if you are traveling by ferry, pad your schedule with extra time coming and going from Nantucket. Occasionally even the ferries are cancelled because of the winds!
Hotels
White Elephant Nantucket
I booked this trip the night before we arrived, and the only available rooms were at the White Elephant. I had heard about the hotel from friends, and I was familiar with the brand from their Palm Beach property and upcoming Aspen property.
White Elephant is one of Nantucket’s iconic hotels. The exterior is in the classic Nantucket shingle style; inside, the vibe is minimalist-preppy, with whites, blues, and beachy motifs sprinkled throughout. The property is fairly large, with an inn, hotel, cottages, residences, and lofts available. We stayed at the Harborside Hotel, and it reminded me of a beachside Marriot—clean, functional, with touches of elevated decor, but nothing that would take your breath away in terms of design. I am sure that their cottages have more charm than the hotel.
Tip— If you are booking a cottage, I recommend asking for one that does not have a view of the street.
We were in a guest room, which was said to be 375 square feet but felt much larger—even having a sitting area. Two nice touches I appreciated in the room decor were the blue side tables and the elephant knobs on the drawers.
That being said, both the room and hotel had a vanilla feel that the photographs online don’t communicate. I was expecting a little bit more charm, I guess, and I found the prices during weekends and summer months to be much higher than what the room was worth. Given Nantucket’s popularity, this is to be expected, but it also may be an incentive to visit earlier or later in the season.
The service at the White Elephant was average in general, but their handling of a particular situation that arose during our stay was excellent. In the early afternoon of our second day, the hotel lost AC. It felt like 90 degrees in our room. The AC was restored later in the evening around 10 PM, but it didn’t cool down until the next morning. The hotel comped that final night, which was the right thing to do—but many hotels would fight you on it. They were incredibly kind about it, which I really appreciated.
The pool at the White Elephant is small, especially considering the number of rooms the hotel has. Nantucket is a beach town, but still—the pool and snack bar facilities are definitely in need of a refresh.
Faraway
Having opened only last year, Faraway is a cool boutique hotel with a preppy-meets-beach vibe. Four traditional Nantucket houses make up the hotel, with a courtyard and bar in the center. Something of note is that some of the rooms don’t have private bathrooms—as in, you share a bathroom with another guest. I'd never heard of this kind of thing at a ‘high-end’ boutique property, and I was a bit taken aback. The reviews seem fairly mixed.
Greydon House
We stopped by Greydon House to take a look around. At the front desk, we met John, the concierge. He was probably the most helpful person we came across in Nantucket, with so much knowledge of restaurants, beaches, transportation, etc. We found him to be much more well-versed than the concierge desk at the White Elephant.
While I didn’t see the rooms at Greydon House, it felt smaller but more sophisticated than Faraway. A guest described their stay to me…
“So far, the experience has been great. It’s a very cool, low-key hotel. It’s not fancy. It is understated, dark, and warm. We had drinks downstairs at the bar in a very cool setting—very dark and cozy. The rooms are pretty small, but it’s a phenomenal location if you want access to town/restaurants. The service has been above average.”
The Brant
I had read a few recent articles about The Brant, including a review by Michelin, so I was eager to check it out. In terms of design, it felt underwhelming, verging on tacky—especially the Moet yellow umbrellas and accessories in the outdoor areas. The lobby and common spaces were modern but sparse. Their pool is set to open in 2025, and when we visited, construction had not yet begun. I am not sure it would be on my list of places to stay.
21 Broad
A friend mentioned she spent a couple of nights at 21 Broad years ago, so I popped over to take a look. She said it felt like staying in a room in someone’s home, and that’s exactly what I thought. It’s cheerful, modern, and a bit quirky—an ideal option if you are looking for a more budget-conscious choice.
Two hotels that I didn’t see but have heard good things about are the Wauwinet, which is adults-only, and the Cliffside Hotel.
Beaches
Nantucket has several beaches to choose from, and one thing to keep in mind while visiting in the summer is the crowds.
Jetties was the most packed beach we visited. Close to town, it offered parking and a restaurant called Sandbar that overlooked the beach. Sandbar had a fun and lively scene—if you are looking for something rowdy with good music, it might be worth a stop!
Madaket and Dionis were two beautiful, less-crowded beaches. Madaket is known for having rough surf, while Dionis is more of a family beach, with small waves and very soft sand. I preferred both of these to Jetties… with fewer people, it was much easier to relax and enjoy.
Tip— To reach a more remote part of Madaket, drive past Millie's Market and take a right at the dead end. Go over the causeway, then follow the arrow for beach access. The beach is pretty and practically empty compared to the main stretch by Millie’s.
Sconset Beach is a beautiful spot that was fairly uncrowded in the mid-morning. You can reach the beach by parking on the streets around the area, and we decided to do nearby a ‘bluff walk’ recommended to us by locals. Essentially, it was a dirt trail that ran behind people’s homes. A little awkward, considering they were out there trying to enjoy their coffee! I would skip the walk.
Tip– I highly recommend renting a car to tour around the island. We rented a Mini Cooper for a day from Affordable Rentals, located around the corner from our hotel, and it made exploring so much easier. If you plan on taking the car on the sand, ask for a Jeep, and they provide you with a pump for deflating the tires.
Restaurants & Sandwich Shops
Cru
A seafood restaurant located right on the marina, Cru is a perfect lunch spot, especially if you just arrived. We ate there after our ferry docked and enjoyed watching the ships in the harbor. Menu-wise, the highlights were the clams, oysters, and the thick-cut fries.
Straight Wharf
Straight Wharf was our favorite of the two dinners we had. It offered delicious appetizers like popcorn and feta dip, a sliced steak my husband rated a 10/10, and one of the best tuna burgers I’ve ever tasted. Of course, I had to order dessert when I saw they had s'mores pot de crème, and it didn't disappoint.
Tip— Since this was a last-minute trip, we didn’t have any dinner reservations. We went to Straight Wharf on the early side and were able to grab two seats in their bar area. It is off to the side of the main dining room with a limited menu, but we loved it!
The Nautilus
With more of an Asian influence on its cuisine, The Nautilus was a great change-up from the other restaurants where we had been eating. The lettuce wraps and the clam tacos were the main hits. The only dessert on the menu was a coconut creme brûlée. Sadly, after we ordered it, they told us it had not set, and they didn't have any other options.
The Juice Bar
Make sure to check out The Juice Bar for their homemade ice cream. It is an incredibly popular spot… with a line down the block and around the corner at night!
Bartlett’s Farms
This family-owned grocery store sells fresh produce, flowers, plants, and gardening supplies. It also offers ‘pick your own’ vegetable and flower tours, which sound lovely! One section is dedicated to children’s beach toys, if you forgot to bring…
Cisco Brewers
Cisco Brewers is a fun spot for a drink, light bites, and live music. They offer beer as well as cocktails, and food trucks from places like 167 Raw, Millie’s, and Lobster Trap are there daily, serving fresh, locally-caught seafood. It becomes a bit of a scene later in the day, especially for twenty-somethings, but definitely stop by—getting to watch shellfish prepared right in front of you is a treat.
Although we didn’t get the chance to go, I have heard wonderful things about the following restaurants…
Tip— Depending on what beach you are visiting, head to a nearby sandwich shop in the morning to pick up lunch! I recommend calling in the order in advance, especially during the high season.
Provisions is a beloved spot to stop for sandwiches before a beach day. They have one famous sandwich called Turkey Terrific… essentially ‘Thanksgiving in a sandwich.’ I also heard their Portuguese bread is fabulous.
Claudette’s Sandwiches at Sconset Beach is another institution. Worth noting that everything is served on whole wheat bread.
Something Natural seems to be the ‘healthy’ option for to-go lunches on the island, offering salads and juices in addition to your typical deli sandwiches.
Shopping
I didn’t have a chance to do a lot of shopping, but I did pop into a few stores. Nantucket has several well-appointed home-good boutiques, especially if you are looking for a gift or beach house decor. The clothing stores didn’t have anything special, but they are worth checking out if you have the time.
Centre Point has beautiful home decor as well as a small selection of clothing. The items all feel incredibly ‘Nantucket’—blues and whites, polished tableware, beautiful photo frames, and a good selection of gifts.
Check out Olivela for a small selection of curated brands and their trunk shows. Hosted throughout the summer season, past shows have featured brands like Cult Gaia and Ariana Degreas. Olivela also carries Agua, a favorite brand of mine that I first came across in Cartagena.
So, all in all…
I’d love to go to Nantucket again but with an important caveat. On this next trip, I would rent a house. From my time at the White Elephant and other neighboring properties, I found the hotel product to be a B+. There seem to be a lot of fantastic rentals, and I recommend that potential visitors definitely check out availability. The great thing about Nantucket is how flexible it is—suitable for a family vacation, romantic weekend away, or girls’ trip. If you like seafood and sunsets and don’t mind waiting in a long queue for some homemade ice cream, this is the spot for you.