Just Back From: Jackson Hole

A different kind of Just Back From, I actually planned this trip for two couples who went this past August. I had never been to Montana or Wyoming, but I did a ton of research and heard amazing things from other travelers about EXP Journeys, a company that creates unique, personally tailored experiences for visiting the national parks. This group spent several nights there, and we sat down to discuss their thoughts on Yellowstone, Jackson Hole, and the trip overall.

On getting to Yellowstone:

Before Jackson Hole, we visited friends in Bozeman, MT and found it worth a day or half a day there. The main street has great restaurants and shopping, with normal boutiques and those selling Western gear. There were only a few chain stores; it was much more mom-and-pop. We then drove from Bozeman to Paradise Valley, MT. 

On their guide: 

The travel company EXP Journeys matched us with their guide Bryan Codi, who was with us for the duration of the trip. He is a very experienced guide who has traveled the world but spent most of his time in the American West. Bryan had such an amazing amount of knowledge. He could go on and on, in a good way, about everything we were seeing—stories, cool details, just providing so much color. 

On transportation throughout the park: 

EXP Journeys provided the van, driven by Bryan, that we used for the trip. Before departure, we filled out a questionnaire to determine snack and beverage preferences. When we got to the van, there was a whole array of snacks for us, which was then replenished each day.

On Sage Lodge in Paradise Valley: 

We arrived at Sage Lodge just before dinner. Walking in, we were struck by the phenomenal views of the pond and mountain range. The atmosphere was cozy with a real mountain lodge feel, featuring fireplaces in the rooms that added to the charm. We were in a Lodge Deluxe Window King, and while the room itself was comfortable, the layout was odd. In the bathroom, the toilet and shower were in one room and the sink in another, undermining the idea of a private toilet area. There needed to be more space, too—we found it difficult to unpack. 

The location of Sage Lodge is what sets it apart from other hotels in the area. It is situated at Yellowstone’s northern gate, the less crowded entry point, and is close to the bison herds. The surroundings were truly stunning. On-site, they had bikes, paddle boards, a hot tub, and fishing equipment. It was about a 100-yard walk down to a swimming area in Yellowstone River. 

At one point, we biked over to the Old Saloon, a bar that has been there since 1902 and claims to have the oldest operating liquor license west of the Mississippi, even through Prohibition. They had live music that we enjoyed. It is a must-do if you are in the area.

Another feature worth mentioning is the Ranch Houses located on the other side of the pond, facing the resort. They are four and five-bedroom houses that are perfect for a larger group. While we were there, a wedding party had rented all of them out. Our guide, Bryan, said he usually tries to upgrade his clients to those houses. I assume the finishes there are a bit higher end than the lodge, as they were constructed later. 

On dining at Sage Lodge:

There are two restaurants at Sage Lodge. The Fireside Room is off the lobby, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The other is The Grill, which is located in a separate building and has gorgeous views of the valley. The Grill had an excellent mushroom tower appetizer, and the locally farmed beef was delicious. The cocktails were great, too—I got an apricot Manhattan. 

On Day 1 in Yellowstone:

For our first full day in Yellowstone, we explored the park via van and saw a number of wild animals. We would spend an hour or two driving, then get out to walk around a particular area Bryan wanted us to see, and then drive a bit more. That was the cycle. We covered so much ground, and the landscape was just stunning.

We went to Bison Valley and saw hundreds roaming freely. At one point, a few bison began walking along the road, right by all the cars. It was cool to see them up close.

One of the highlights was spotting a mountain goat on a sheer mountain face. Bryan set up his viewing scope so we could see, as they blended into the terrain. We also saw a black bear and her cub, some caribou, and a pronghorn antelope. We didn’t see any wolves, though. Bryan explained that you have a better chance of seeing them early in the day, before it gets too warm. They wouldn’t give us a percentage of how often guests see wolves, so I assume it is not great. If you are going into the trip dead set on seeing a wolf, make sure you are willing to go at the crack of dawn—and know that it is not a guarantee that you will see them anyway. 

After spending the day touring the park, we went back to the hotel. We then went to dinner at Yellowstone Valley Grill, about ten minutes by car from the Sage Lodge. It was just bought by the family that owns AutoZone, and they set up this very cool wine cellar and do tastings there. The food was good, and the views of the mountain range were incredible.

On the crowds:

About five million visitors come to Yellowstone annually; four million come in July and August. That being said, it didn’t feel crowded. I attribute that to the fact that we were in less-known areas that only Bryan and other experts know. The one spot that did feel incredibly touristy was Old Faithful.

On Day 2 in Yellowstone:

We drove from Montana down to Grand Teton through Yellowstone. We saw Old Faithful, swam in the Gibbon River, and walked around Artist Point, where we saw this stunning waterfall. There were a few smaller waterfalls in that same area, and Bryan found us one that was warm enough to swim in. While we were swimming, he set up a nice lunch of sandwiches for us, and we ate by the water.

After lunch, we went to Old Faithful Lodge, a very famous spot that attracts a ton of tourists. It was cool but incredibly packed. When we arrived, everyone was crowding around this one spot, waiting to see the geyser go off. Bryan explained that the geyser goes off every sixteen minutes, so he walked us to the other side to a less crowded area where we could still see the geyser. We then got back in the van and arrived in Grand Teton around three o’clock.

On Caldera House in Grand Teton:

Caldera House is a boutique hotel and private ski club. We were upgraded to their massive four-bedroom suite. It was incredible, with a huge kitchen, mountain views, and even a theater room. The finishes were very high-end; everything about it was exceptional. The staff was helpful, and the lobby was decked out with snacks and drinks. That being said, there weren’t any amenities other than the lobby—no pool or hot tub.

On dining: 

One night, we ate at the Four Seasons’ formal restaurant, about two doors down from Caldera House. The menu is heavy on meat, but they also have a number of seafood options like trout, scallops, and cod. The food was delicious, and the space itself was very cool.

 We also liked The Bistro Jackson Hole, which was fairly basic but had good food.

Another spot we liked was the Silver Dollar Bar, a classic, old bar in town. 

On the rodeo: 

The rodeo was fun! We were in a special area where we met the owner of the bulls being ridden, which was cool. He shared some incredible stories with us. The best part of this section is how close you are to where the cowboys get on—close enough to reach out and hold their hand. They even have a gentle bull in the holding chute they let tourists sit on.

We decided to eat at the rodeo—hot dogs, hamburgers, local beef jerky, and more. Bryan would run out to grab us drinks, though they only had beer and hard seltzers. It was a better choice than our original plan of an early dinner at a fancier restaurant.

On Jackson Hole:

Caldera House is technically in Teton Village, about a twenty-minute drive from Jackson Hole. One day, we explored the main street: two of us went shopping and to a wine tasting while the others visited the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. The wine bar was very cute and just off Main Street; the wine was locally made at a vineyard outside of Jackson, and we enjoyed chatting with the locals who produced it. The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, right off Jackson Town Square, is a true institution with saddle seats at the bar and a genuine Western vibe.

On activities at Caldera House: 

A beautiful bike trail runs along the river up to a glacial lake called Lake Jenny, where guests can stop for a swim. The trail was flat and easy, and they provided us with bikes. 

Another fun activity was fly fishing on Snake River. We took two boats with two guides, and snacks and drinks were provided. The river winds through Jackson Valley, and the views are spectacular. Notably, the river felt pretty empty—there were only a few local fishermen and kids playing on the beach here and there. 

On top of the mountain, there is hiking, paragliding, and hang gliding. If you want a serious hike, you can hike to the top of the mountain rather than take the gondola. For someone experienced, that probably takes about 2.5 hours. 

We expected everything on the mountaintop to be closed in these summer weeks, but many were open—like the Belgian waffle house. 

On the trip overall: 

It was an awesome trip. One thing worth noting is that several people, including Bryan, insisted that the coolest experience is visiting Yellowstone in the winter. The park is empty, and you explore in a kind of moon vehicle. That said, you have to book it years in advance, but people seem to love it—with lots of backcountry skiing and snowmobiling. It’s like being inside a snow globe.

On whom the trip is for: 

While EXP Journeys can curate the trip for any age, this particular itinerary was suited for adults or families with older children.