The Ritz-Carlton Nikko
On a recent trip to Japan, I was looking for a two to three-night stay at a tranquil retreat before delving into the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. The Ritz-Carlton Nikko not only met but exceeded my expectations.
Located about two hours north of Tokyo, Nikko can be reached by two main ways: car and rail. Driving generally takes between two and a half to three hours, depending on what airport one arrives at, so hiring a car would work best. I opted for the train, and upon arriving at the station I discovered that I needed both local and express tickets while at the station. I would definitely recommend having a local guide help assist with purchasing tickets. From the Nikko train station, it was a twenty-five-minute drive to the hotel – with about 48 hairpin turns!
Tip — the taxi was not very spacious, so I would recommend reaching out to the Ritz-Carlton in advance to arrange pick-up in a larger vehicle especially if you have a lot of suitcases.
The Ritz-Carlton Nikko opened in July 2020 during the height of the pandemic. Tourists were not allowed to visit Japan until October 2022, so, when we arrived, it felt like a brand-new property. It blended Ryokan style with a focus on nature: think lots of light woods, gray tones, stonework, and immense glass windows. The design was a reflection of the property’s surroundings – located beside Lake Chuzenji, the physical beauty of Japan was on central display at the Ritz Carlton.
The lobby and social spaces were beautiful and spacious, broken up by furniture and partial walls with fireplaces. This choice managed to make the atmosphere feel intimate. In the lobby, they even had a whiskey bar that served special Japanese whiskeys as well as others from around the world. During our visit, it seemed like the other guests were largely Tokyo natives wanting a luxury getaway from the city. Based on my experience, I am sure it will become a popular destination for Americans, too.
The rooms were among my favorites that I have stayed in. They had the option of a lake or mountain view, as well as connecting room options for families. All rooms had balconies, perfect for getting fresh air to combat jet lag. The rooms were designed in light woods and creams, creating that classic ‘zen’ feeling. The options included double beds or kings, and the suites were outstanding. The bathrooms had windows in front of large soaking tubs and glass showers, offering a perfect view of the surrounding landscape. The only downside of the rooms was the lighting control system, which was new and advanced but a bit confusing. However, the staff's prompt response to an issue with the lights one evening was commendable, and we received a handwritten apology note the next morning from one of the hotel’s engineers – it was really thoughtful.
On arrival, we found the softest linen pajamas waiting in our room’s drawers. It was a nice touch – they were incredibly comfortable, and the housekeeping pressed them each day. During our stay, housekeeping also left beautiful wood boxes full of chocolate-covered walnuts, including vanilla, strawberry, and matcha, in our rooms during turndown. I loved them so much that I bought a few boxes to bring back home!
Around the hotel was a very small town worth exploring on foot or by bike, and the Ritz provided bikes and helmets upon request. There are several hiking trails as well, and one of my favorite activities was an hour-long hike led by David, who was actually the activity director for guests. A Dallas native, he was incredibly friendly, and having him as a guide was a great way to learn about the region. The trails were well-marked enough that you could easily go without a guide as well.
The hotel also offered fishing, but it required advanced booking due to limited permits. Paddleboarding was also available, but it was too cold during our stay. The paddleboards looked more like giant rafts or doublewide inflatable paddleboards than what we were accustomed to. The concierge worked diligently to get us a spot on one of the local golf courses, as there was not one on the property. My husband and sons enjoyed getting to play, but it was a little under an hour’s drive away. If you are a lefty, make sure to reserve a set of lefty clubs in advance – they are hard to find in this part of the world!
Kegon Falls, a waterfall surrounded by Nikko National Park, was a 10-minute walk from the hotel. It is beautiful, almost one hundred yards in height and framed by lush trees.
Tip – For a quick snack, be sure to visit the shop next door and pick up a carton of lemon milk. It was divine!
The hotel had three places to eat: The Japanese Restaurant, where we had breakfast every day, the Lakehouse, a beautiful space overlooking the water, and The Lobby Lounge, which served tea and light meals. Surprisingly, my favorite food was from the lobby lounge. Their turkey club was the best I’ve had in a long time!
The most special feature of the Ritz-Carlton Nikko was the private onsen, a natural hot spring, as well as its fabulous spa facilities. I made a few trips to the onsen during my stay, and the experience was just magical. One section of the bath was indoors while the actual onsen was outside and covered by an overhang; both had a beautiful view of the surrounding forest and were lined with polished stone.
I left both the onsen – and the resort itself – feeling rejuvenated. It was the perfect precursor to Tokyo, allowing us to shake off our jet lag in one of the most beautiful regions of Japan. I would happily go back during my next trip to that part of the world.
