Puglia, Italy
I traveled to Puglia during a summer holiday with my family. While I’d been to Italy many times, it was my first time in this region. I’d heard phenomenal things about Puglia and its cuisine, as well as the Borgo Egnazia. We spent a week there, and the hotel had something for everyone: golf, watersports, a beach club, and charming nearby towns to explore. The latter half of this article discusses several other towns in Puglia—Lecce, Gallipoli, Otranto, and Castro—with a guest who has been visiting the region with her family over the past two decades.
Getting There
We flew Lufthansa from Dulles to Frankfurt, then onto Naples, followed by a 3 ½ hour drive to Puglia. If possible, I highly recommend flying on Lufthansa’s 747—it’s a comfortable plane with great service.
Borgo Egnazia
Before arriving at Borgo Egnazia, I had heard some guests mention that the resort has a bit of a contrived feel—as in brand new but built to feel old. Once I arrived, while I could understand the comment, I found it beautiful. The exteriors of the buildings were constructed with limestone, designed to evoke the charm of an old Puglian property. The interiors were finished in soft creams and linens, feeling chic, modern, and luxurious. The property is incredibly expansive, covering roughly 45 acres.
Tip— We visited during a particularly hot week in June. The temperatures are always high in the summer, so I would be mindful of the weather when planning your trip. Outdoor activities, like long bike rides and hikes, are beautiful in this region but unbearable during peak heat.
There are plenty of room options at the hotel, from individual rooms to suites and private villas with pools. Depending on your needs, there’s something for everyone. The décor of the rooms and common areas is polished and clean, with plenty of whites, ivories, and beiges. Everywhere you look are beautiful linens and details. The rooms had gorgeous four-poster beds draped in fabric. At night, the hotel’s lighting, especially the candles, transformed the property into something serene and magical. It was a very romantic, chic, and fresh vibe.
We stayed at Casa Magnifica, a three-bedroom home with a large rectangular pool. The house comes with a caretaker whom they call a “mama;” she not only maintained the villa but cooked the most delicious breakfasts for us. Every morning, we sat by the pool and ate what she’d prepared, like fresh pastries, eggs, and sliced fruit. It was such a treat!
Dining
The hotel has about five restaurants and three bars. Overall, the food was phenomenal.
Due Camini is their fine dining restaurant, where you choose one of their fixed seven-course menus ahead of time. They offer three different types of menus, including one that is fully vegetarian. I asked them to pace our meal faster than usual since we had just arrived and were jet-lagged. They did a great job, and the meal was perfect, with a beautiful presentation and delicious food.
Cala Masciola is the restaurant at their beach club, which you can reach by bicycle, a long walk, or by car. I also saw hotel staff shuttling guests there. I loved the space—it has an all-white vibe, is set right by the water, and the food was fresh and excellent. We ate there a few times. It’s also a nice spot for a dip in the water, which was especially refreshing during the hot week when we were there.
Activities
Borgo Egnazia has three outdoor pools and one heated indoor pool. The pools were beautiful, but we primarily used the pool at Casa Magnifica.
The resort has an 18-hole golf course at San Domenico Golf Club, but it was so hot while we were there that none of us played.
The gym was one of the prettiest I’ve seen at a hotel, with wood floors, curved ceilings, and the same attention to detail and design as the rest of the property. It was equipped with plenty of accessories you don’t typically find in hotel gyms, like resistance bands, updated machines, weights, and more. Thanks to the large windows, it was spacious and had lots of natural light.
The hotel advertises plenty of water sports activities. That being said, besides one person taking a paddleboard lesson, I didn’t notice any guests partaking. The spa, though beautifully designed and offering excellent treatments, features a staircase lined with “faux” fireplaces that, to me, felt slightly out of place. They gave an otherwise elegant space a somewhat artificial feel.
The resort also had tennis and padel courts, which were lit up in the evening so that we could play when it was cooler.
One activity I recommend skipping unless you have very young children is the “Italian-themed” evening. It’s held in a beautiful outdoor courtyard, where they attempt to recreate a historical Puglian dinner with vendors pretending to be shoemakers and craftsmen. The food is laid out buffet-style at multiple stations. I found it hokey and overpriced—something I wouldn’t do again. However, the courtyard itself is magical and would be perfect for a wedding or large event.
Exploring Puglia
We drove around to explore the surrounding areas of Puglia. Our favorite spot was the “all-white” town of Ostuni, where we enjoyed a delicious meal at Osteria del Tempo Perso.
Tip— I highly recommend renting a car and having it delivered to the hotel. We arranged ours in advance, and it was ready upon arrival. Funny story—our friends came to the hotel a week after us and also rented a car through the hotel. When they connected to the car's Bluetooth, our name appeared on the screen… turns out it was the same car!
Just Back From: Lecce, Gallipoli, Otranto, and Castro
The following is a brief interview with a guest who has been visiting Puglia with her family over the past two decades. While they stay primarily outside of Castro, about two hours south of Borgo Egnazia, she recommends visitors check out the neighboring cities of Lecce, Otranto, and Gallipoli.
On reaching Puglia:
My family typically flies into Rome, takes a connecting flight from Rome to Brindisi, and then drives 1.5 hours from Brindisi to our home near Castro. If we plan to spend a few days in Rome first, we opt to take the train down from Rome to Lecce, which takes about six hours. I highly recommend the train—it feels just like Amtrak and allows you to really see the landscape.
On Lecce:
Called the ‘Florence of the South,’ Lecce is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve been to. With its Baroque architecture, limestone streets, and sun-filled piazzas, it has an authentic, historical feel without compromising beauty or comfort. That being said, I don’t think guests have to spend more than two nights in the city to experience it (though you may end up wanting to stay longer!)
On where to stay in Lecce:
My family always stays at the Patria Palace Hotel. Once the residence of a noble family, it blends elegant, traditional elements of southern Italian architecture with modern details: light and airy colors, intricate stucco moldings, and minimalist furniture. It is comfortable and centrally located within the city, with a rooftop bar, restaurant, and a partnership with a beach club on the Adriatic. I recommend asking for a room with a view of Basilica di Santa Croce, a gorgeous, Baroque church right across the street. Atenze, Patria Palace’s restaurant, is delicious. Even if we’re visiting Lecce for a few hours from Castro, we like to have dinner at one of their outdoor tables.
On activities in Lecce:
The best way to see Lecce is to walk around the historic neighborhood, specifically along Duca d’Aosta. There are shops, food stalls, and churches, such as Basilica di Santa Croce and Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta. Often, the churches allow tourists to take a look at the chapel, which is just as stunning as the exterior.
The Roman amphitheater in the center of town is a must-see, and Garibaldi Gardens is perfect for a stroll in the shade if you find yourself in Lecce on a particularly hot day. I recommend stopping for an outdoor lunch or cocktail in one of the piazzas (our favorite is Piazza del Duomo). For the best gelato, check out Natale Pasticceria.
On Gallipoli:
Located a half-hour drive from Lecce, Gallipoli is a beautiful little beach town. The town itself is much like Lecce: narrow, limestone streets and plenty of historic churches. The main stretch of the beach is encircled by massive walls that used to be used as a kind of fortification—it’s lovely to walk and then have lunch or dinner by the water. Our favorite restaurant is Il Bastione; it serves excellent seafood, and the upstairs terrace is our go-to spot in the evenings.
On Otranto:
Roughly forty minutes from Lecce on the eastern side of the peninsula’s heel is Otranto. It is a beautiful, maze-like beach town with great restaurants and ruins to tour. The Aragonese castle is a must-see, as is Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, with its famous mosaics and collection of bones. The Byzantine Church of St. Peter was recently restored and worth a stop. Our favorite restaurant in Otranto is Acmet Pascià, which has great cocktails, seafood, and a stunning sunset view of the harbor at sunset.
On Castro:
Even more off the beaten path than Gallipoli and Otranto, this sleepy little town sits on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean, with views of the Albanian mountains on a good day. You won’t find any Americans here—we haven’t, besides ourselves. On the top of the city is a beautiful piazza and a castle that dates back to 1100s. We love walking around the remains of the castle fortifications after dinner or a drink in the piazza.
About thirty minutes south of Castro is one of Puglia’s more famous restaurants: Lo Scalo in Novaglie. It sits on a cliff overlooking the water and has some of the best fish in the region—caught literally feet away from where you dine.