Mexico City
Mexico City has been on my list of places I have wanted to explore for a few years now. I grew up traveling to Mexico on family vacations, and the culture, colors, and people have a special place in my heart. Everyone we met was excited to show off their city and made us feel at home. I will have to return, as there is so much more to see and do.
Before you arrive…
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Be sure to take a look at the forecast and pack appropriately; we were there in December, and it was much colder than I anticipated.
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For exhibits like the Frida Kahlo Museum and Casa Pedregal, be sure to purchase tickets in advance. For lunch and dinners, make reservations early – especially if going during the holiday season. Spots fill up fast, and the concierge was a great source of recommendations.
Tip – for restaurants like Quintonil and Pujol, I recommend going to their website and joining the waitlist if you are unable to secure a reservation.
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Get Mexican Pesos at your bank for tipping.
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Pack Immodium or another type of stomach medication. You will be eating street food — better safe than sorry!
Hotels
Las Alcobas
We stayed in a deluxe category room at Las Alcobas in Polanco, a beautiful neighborhood of the city. While the room was well-appointed, it had a low ceiling and dark wood accents, both of which made it feel tight. The lighting controls were surprisingly intuitive – unlike a lot of hotel rooms nowadays. The bathroom was nice and had a modern feel, but the tub was reminiscent of a 1980s jacuzzi. A perk was the complimentary mini bar, which featured an array of beverages, snacks, and local Mexican candy.
Tip – check out the non-pareils and delicious chocolate chip cookies!
The best things about Las Alcobas are its location and the staff. Friendly and engaged, they noticed I was cold while checking in, and they immediately brought me tea and honey. I can't say enough good things about our concierge Bruno and his team. He helped me to plan every aspect of the trip, always returning emails/calls within 24 hours, and he was once sweet enough to lend me his jacket during a rather chilly bike tour. With his help, we got most of the reservations we wanted, and the two spots he recommended at the last minute were excellent – more on those later.
If you prefer larger rooms or want social spaces, you either need to get a suite at Las Alcobas or stay elsewhere. Besides the small but chic restaurant, there is no place to have a drink or hang out. That being said, the service and concierge team were so helpful that it would be a difficult decision to not stay again at Las Alcobas.
I also have to give a big thank you to the thoughtful housekeeping team who did a beautiful job every day. I commented how much I liked the homemade non-pareils they left out at night, and on my last day, they left me a handwritten note with a bag of the non-pareils!
Casa Polanco
I had been on the waitlist for this property and was offered the opportunity to stay here for two nights of the trip. I decided to remain at Las Alcobas, just because of the hassle of changing hotels.
Still, I wanted to swing by and take a quick look around in case we chose to stay at Casa Polanco for a future trip. The hotel is an old mansion with a gate outside; you have to be buzzed in for entry. After buzzing us in, they asked us to leave, as we were not official guests, despite my explanation that we were on the waitlist. It was not the warmest welcome.
I called into the office and was connected with Maria, the general manager. After explaining the situation, she invited us to come back in. We were sequestered into part of the lounge and taken care of by Juan, a kind member of the staff who brought coffee and showed us their tequila selection. He had just moved back to Mexico City after many years of working in NYC at Serafina! We waited there to meet with Maria, but after twenty minutes we decided to call it quits. I did message her that I wanted to find another time to visit but never heard back.
All that being said, the interior of the hotel was stunning. Beautiful art pieces spruced throughout, with a chic, modern design overlaying the building’s traditional structure. I am sure the team was just doing their job to protect their guests, as it is a very small property, so I am not sure if the cold treatment we received would be the same for those staying there.
Four Seasons
I was pleasantly surprised at the Four Seasons Hotel. Friends who had stayed pre-renovation called it tired and unremarkable. While I didn’t see the rooms, the central public space was a blend of lounge and garden, with beautiful pops of red throughout. There were so many places to sit and have a drink. It does seem to be ideal for people who want a lively hotel with a lot going on — or those traveling with younger kids. In the lobby a screen listed all sorts of activities for children that take place during the week.
A note on the bustle: it was Christmas time when we visited, and it was very crowded, so crowded there were lines to the elevators to get up to the rooms. Something worth noting if you are more interested in an R&R vacation!
The hotel is next to Chapultepec Park, and I found the area to be more commercial than the quieter, tree-lined streets of Polanco. The Ritz and St Regis are also in the same neighborhood.
Tip – Soho House Mexico City just opened! Although I didn't see it, I have heard that it is very chic.
Restaurants and Bars
I did try to get into Quintonil and Pujol before I arrived, as I’d heard great things, but, unfortunately, neither was available. I was a little disappointed in the food at several of these ‘top-rated’ restaurants that I’d heard so much about over the years, including Maximo and Rosetta. I felt as though they were churning out the same dishes that have been heralded in travel articles, and they were served in a factory-like manner with no real explanation. I was more impressed with the local establishments and an Italian restaurant called Osteria del Becco that was recommended to us.
Maximo
We went to Maximo for dinner. The interior was eye-catching, with high ceilings, candles, and an energized vibe. I was disappointed in the food and, as mentioned above, the dining experience. The menu was varied (chicken, quail, pasta, ceviche, etc), and every dish tasted like it had two sticks of butter and some heavy cream mixed in.
We saw the kitchen staff diligently prepping these beautiful dishes through a window, but the waitstaff didn’t seem to share their passion. They rotely took our order and set out the food. There seemed to be a disconnect, with some authenticity lost after the food left the kitchen.
Rosetta
Situated in a beautiful old mansion, be sure to go to Rosetta early to check out the bar upstairs (and their cricket popcorn!) The food was decent, but dining had the same factory-like feel of Maximo.
Tip – order the sweet potato tamale! It was the highlight of dinner.
Contramar
Another critic darling, Contramar had good service as well as exceptional cuisine. With a thatch ceiling but an otherwise simple interior, it offered wonderful dishes like tuna tostadas, ceviches, and quesadillas. I was told to order the whole fish with the red and green sauce; while it was decent, I prefer salt-baked fish. The best part of the meal was dessert. They placed a tray on the table featuring an assortment of treats, including a strawberry cake with whipped cream and meringue. It didn’t just look beautiful – it was delicious, too. Out of the three – Contramar, Rosetta, and Maximo – the food at Contramar was my favorite.
Osteria del Becco
Recommended to us by our concierge Bruno, this chic Italian restaurant close to our hotel was excellent. The risotto and pastas were phenomenal, and the espresso martini I ordered was one of the best I’ve ever had. The interior was minimalist and featured a buzzing crowd, making for a fun and delicious dinner.
Tip – order the stuffed squash blossoms!
Mandolina
Also close to Las Alcobas, we went to this restaurant for breakfast one morning. The decor was beautiful, reminding me of Da Paolino in Capri with lemon trees covering the ceiling. Even at 9:30 AM, it was very crowded, so I would recommend making a reservation for breakfast. The brunch menu was great: we had the shakshuka, almond oat bowl, and caprese toast.
Guzina Oaxaca
A casual, low-key restaurant in Polanco that offers authentic Oaxacan food. Serving fresh salsa (made table-side) and the best tamales I’ve ever had, the lunch we ate here was delicious. The attitude of the staff illustrated the difference between these ‘local’ restaurants and the critic darlings: the servers at Guzina Oaxaca took their time to explain the menu thoroughly, and they actually seemed to want it to be an authentic ‘experience’ for their guests.
Tip – ask your concierge for local restaurants to try; these were the highlight!
Panaderia Rosetta
Panaderia Rosetta is a bakery by the chef and owner of Rosetta. There is always a line, so make sure to get there on the earlier side, especially if you want to sit down for breakfast. They are famous for the ricotta and guava roll, but my favorite was the bun filled with dulce de leche.
Tip – the sister restaurant and bakery Cafe Nin is by the same female chef and usually not as crowded.
Recently I was introduced to Pati Jinich, chef and bestselling author. Here are a few of her favorite restaurants: Martinez, El Cardenal for breakfast or lunch, and her sister’s restaurant Niddo on Avenida Juarez. For the best pan dulce, she suggests Patisserie Dominique.
Hanky Panky
With a traditional Mexican restaurant as ‘the front’, quite literally, to get into Hanky Panky we gave our names and waited our turn. When the time came, they led us into a speakeasy behind the taqueria. They served a variety of drinks with some more unique options, so ask your server if you are looking to try a more adventurous cocktail! The time limit was two hours, which was more than enough. The exit is as fun as the entrance: you walk through a faux vending machine!
Tlecan
We booked a private mezcal tasting at this dark, moody bar in one of Mexico City’s trendiest neighborhoods. To be honest, unless you love mezcal, you don’t need to do the private tasting, but it is still a must-visit! Tlecan is woman-owned, and the head chef Yoshimi Martinez was incredibly kind. We spoke with her after enjoying three small dishes – it was some of the best upscale restaurant ‘street food’ we ate!
Tip – If you like spicy drinks, try the Vampiro. It was like an amped-up Bloody Mary with 10x the spice! If you are more into sweeter drinks, opt for the fresh watermelon cocktail. It was delicious.
Experiences
Frida Kahlo Museum
The Frida Kahlo Museum is a Mexico City staple, especially for any art lover. I had asked Bruno and his team to book tickets for it a few months before our arrival, but something went wrong and the tickets were unavailable. I recommend booking tickets yourself (rather than via concierge or travel agent) online fairly far in advance.
Flying Pictures Hot Air Balloon
Arranged by our concierge, this hot air balloon company took us over the pyramids early one morning. It was a highlight of the trip even though we are not early risers (we left the hotel at 5:30 for a 6:20 arrival, and take off was at 7:00). The company provided coffee, heaters, chairs, and bathrooms – everything to make the experience comfortable. Depending on the wind, they tell you that you could be in the air anywhere from 25 minutes to an hour. I felt very safe for the duration; the staff were true pros at what they do. The landing was especially impressive – the basket stopped right on the back of their truck!
The views were breathtaking. The company provided a GoPro and drone for professional photographs, making it very Disney-esque. You can purchase these images in a zip file at the end.
There were tours of the pyramids offered, but we decided to head back to the hotel. Even if you have a driver, I recommend putting on Waze when leaving, as we still got a little lost.
Tip – there are numerous different companies for hot air balloons. When we got in the car, the driver asked us which company we were booked with, and he didn’t have Flying Pictures’ information. Be sure to get the company and correct launch address from the concierge before departing.
Padel at Padelito Rooftop
If you like racquet sports and are looking for a fun workout, reach out to Rene Gonzalez at WhatsApp: +52 55 1222 4777. We met with him for a lesson at a casual facility atop a parking garage. There likely are other private clubs, but this one is closest to the hotel.
Anthropology Museum
An enormous museum, this is a must-stop for any history lover. You can book tickets in advance online or wait fifteen minutes to purchase on-site. I was a little overwhelmed with its size, and it may be worth booking a guide to show you around.
Art and Shopping Tour
There is a big art scene in Mexico City. Many of the pieces are ‘crafty’ in character – woven baskets, painted ceramics, handmade metal pieces – incredibly impressive craftsmanship. While the pieces weren’t my particular style, they were wonderful to see. If I return to Mexico City, I plan to spend more time at the modern art galleries, as most of them were closed because of the holidays.
Renata Chavez (renata@rchcontemporary.art) is an art advisor with a focus on the Mexican art scene whom we spent one day with. She had just started offering shopping tours in Roma, Condesa, and Juarez. I favored the Roma area as it is a bit more established, but seeing the transitional part of Juarez was great: the tiny shops of local designers were in every nook and cranny, making Juarez one of Mexico City’s up-and-coming neighborhoods.
Some of the galleries Renata recommends include OMR, Labor, and Arróniz. If you are looking for modern art museums, check out Museo Jumex and Museo Tamayo.
Electric Bike Tour
I seem to continuously try bike tours on trips and find them all on the dangerous side. Many of the streets in Mexico City had dedicated bike lanes, but several did not. It was faster to get from places like Polanco to Roma and Condesa on bike, but the traffic was a bit hazardous. E-Bikes is a ‘skip’ if you have younger kids.
The bikes were on the newer side, but the helmets didn’t fit properly. While the guides were very friendly, they were not fluent in English. Be sure to ask for English-speaking guides so you can get the most out of their explanations. For our group, we had one guide in front and the other in the back, an arrangement that helped it feel safer. I gave them specific places I wanted to visit ahead of time, which seemed like a smart move. Otherwise, we might have been biking aimlessly around the parks and monuments for three hours.
Chapultepec Park
There are so many great parks in Mexico City. They all boast ‘quiet areas’ intended for relaxation, providing a welcome break from the bustle of the city. If I had stayed at the Four Seasons, I would have walked in Chapultepec Park every morning. The castle on the park’s east side is worth seeing, and it apparently has a zoo and a children’s museum.
Another fun activity in these parks (for adults or kids!) is geocaching: you use a GPS or mobile device to find hidden containers called ‘geocaches’ at specific locations – they have them all around the world. We went geocaching in Chapultepec during a break from biking, and it was a great way to explore our surroundings.
Taco Tour
A taco tour is a must! We met up with Adrian (WhatsApp is: +52 55 1398 5568) through our concierge for an evening of taco and mezcal tasting in Narvarte. We hit three taco spots as well as a traditional cantina; there we had beers with salt and lime and tequila shots!
One of the places we visited, El Vilsito, was an auto-mechanic shop by day and a taqueria by night. Our final stop was a quiet restaurant that boasted a serious mezcal collection, and we tried five different kinds. I was not a huge fan of the mezcal and preferred the taco stands. If I were to do the tour again, I would ask to skip the mezcal and visit more taquerias! If you do love mezcal, perhaps stopping for a drink at Tlecan (or doing the private tasting) is a better bet.
A friend who lives in Mexico City also recommended checking out the taquerias El Farolito and El Califa, which have outlets all over the city.
Mercado de Comida de Coyoacán
Mercado de Comida de Coyoacan was a small market selling tostadas, quesadillas, and tortas. If I went back, I would hire a guide like Adrian to walk us around Coyoacan and recommend what food to try. While not the cleanest, sitting at the counters on the stools was fun. The quesadillas were delicious but different from what we have at home – these are deep-fried.
So far on the trip, I’d been disappointed by the churros. Most had tasted rather dry. Our food guide said that when in Mexico City, make sure to look for a vendor actually making the churros – not the vendor only selling premade! That way you get the freshest.
Tip – I tried the churros at one of the many Churreria El Moro in Mexico City. Again, I thought they were dry. One of the locals let me in on an important secret – the only location of El Moro with churros worth the hype is the original location found in the city’s center!
Shopping
A lot of the stores in Mexico City sold pieces made in the signature folk art style. The majority were handmade, and the level of detail was mindblowing. Many stores also did a modern take on the traditional style.
Bomboti was a chic two-store location (right next door to one another) selling tabletop and household items in Polanco. Be sure to check out the upstairs!
Seleccion Marsella was a cute, minimalist shop that sold everything from tableware to jewelry. They also had a special array of incense and perfumes – if you are big into scents, definitely stop by.
Arroniz Contemporary Art Gallery was closed during our stay, but Renata said it was worth checking out. Their emphasis is on newer Mexican and Latin American artists, featuring exchanges with galleries from around the world.
Proyecto Rufina Condesa had three different locations, each featuring a beautiful selection of pottery. They also sold home goods, textiles, as well as clothing.
Onora had a well-curated selection of home goods and handicrafts. I purchased a set of gorgeous candles there.
El Cigarrito in Roma Norte is a must-stop if you are interested in cigars that are difficult to find in the US – or if you want to get a gift for your favorite cigar lover!
If you’re staying at the Four Seasons or in the area, pop in to see the crystal-covered skulls by Mano De Piedra. Contact Francisco Perez on WhatsApp for more information: +52 55 4370 2671
Esperanza Home was a tiny boutique on the top floor of a walk-up building that is worth the steps. It had beautiful pieces for the home as well as a few locally-made clothing items. Check out their Instagram for details on their pop-ups!
My family and I had an unforgettable time exploring Mexico City, from walking around Chapultepec Park to hopping from taqueria to taqueria on our taco tour. Good food, beautiful art, and kind people — I will have to go back, not only to try the best churros (I will be stopping at the original El Moro first thing), but to further explore the richness of this city and its culture.
