Just Back From: Zermatt, Switzerland

In this edition of Just Back From, I speak with an individual who recently returned from a group ski trip to Zermatt, Switzerland. Not only has this guest been to Zermatt several times, but also to similar ski mountains in Europe, such as Verbier, St. Moritz, Val Gardena, San Cassiano, and Madonna di Campiglio. She is the perfect person to give us her thoughts on accommodations, dining, and, of course, ski conditions!

What made you pick Zermatt?

When we lived in London, we used to go to Zermatt quite a bit. It was easy to get there, and we loved going. When the kids were younger, it was a hard holiday: it is different from Courchevel, which is ski-in ski-out with fantastic service. You carry your skis, you have to walk – it’s a lot of schlepping. We went a couple of times but decided it was too difficult. Now that the kids are older, we decided to go back. The skiing is excellent, and the food is phenomenal. The village is the best ski village in the Alps.

Did you book and plan the trip yourselves? Or did you use a company to help you?

My husband booked it. We’d been so many times that we knew what to do.  

How did you get there? Did you fly from London?

We flew from London to Milan and then took a party bus three hours to Zermatt—something we’d never done before! 

We could have flown into Geneva and taken the train or a minivan there. The train ride from Geneva is very scenic. It’s easy because it goes from Geneva and Zurich straight into the village. Zermatt is a pedestrian village, so there are basically no cars. They do have these electric vans that the hotel sends to meet you at the train station. Once you arrive, they collect your bags and take you to the hotel. 

Where did you stay? 

Because we booked this trip late, we stayed at the Schweizerhof instead of the Mont Cervin, where we have stayed in the past. The Schweizerhof is a smaller boutique hotel, trendy but less luxurious than Mont Cervin. Most of our group was under 24, and they were happy as clams. I would describe it as very Alpen and vibey. 

The Schweizerhof has several restaurants: The Schweizerhof Kitchen, La Muna, and Myoko, their newly opened Japanese restaurant. While we were there, they were still working out some kinks at Myoko, but it had the potential to be very good. Schweizerhof also has pool and spa facilities. 

@schweizerhof_zermatt

@montcervinpalace

We typically stay at Mont Cervin. It is a large, older luxury hotel with updated rooms. That being said, it is a Zermatt luxury hotel. For instance, nothing in Zermatt is at the same level as Courchevel, which is incredibly luxurious, and the service is so exceptional that you hardly touch your boots. Zermatt has a different vibe, which I prefer. You work harder, and it feels more rewarding. There is something about Zermatt generally that feels very down to earth. 

Mont Cervin has a great location right in the center of town. The bar is always happening; people are always in the lobby. They have a main hotel and separate apartments that guests can rent. The one thing everyone complains about regarding the apartments is that they don’t have laundry service. The hotel also has a spacious spa, an indoor/outdoor pool, and several restaurants. Capri, their formal Italian restaurant, has a Michelin star. 

Another hotel that many people like is the Cervo. Located outside of the village, Cervo is very cool and trendy. I wouldn’t stay there personally because I think the village is what makes Zermatt special; if you’re staying at Cervo, you must take a car there.

I definitely recommend Mont Cervin. We are going back next year and staying there. 

Are there houses or chalets available for rent?

Yes, there are. My husband has rented chalets in the past. If you are interested, reach out to Mountain Exposure.

Outside of the hotel restaurants, what was the dining like?

We only ate breakfast at the hotel, never lunch or dinner. In Zermatt, the highlight of the dining experience is the lunches on the mountain. They are the best I’ve ever had. What makes them unique is that they are served in these huts – authentic, cozy huts that take your breath away. The food is phenomenal. They are just so outstanding that we go back to the same ones time and time again. You can ask any concierge or ski guide for recommendations, too. 

A basic lunch begins with a platter of meats and cheeses local to the region as an appetizer, then a soup to start, then a specialty – plus a lot of red wine. They often serve a rosti, a Swiss dish comprising fried potato with cheese and bacon. There is a lot of veal, raclette, venison. It is a gigantic lunch, not fancy but rustic. 

If you don't ski, you can hike to most of the huts. They’ve constructed several walking paths so people can easily reach lunches on the mountain.

@findlerhof_zermatt

@chez_vrony

Favorite dining options on the mountain: Zum See, Blatten, Findlerhof (try the rosti!), Fluhalp, Chez Vrony, and Cervo. 

While the lunches are off the charts, the dinners are okay. The restaurants in town can’t hold a candle to those on the mountain. L’Atelier Grandsire is a favorite of mine for dinner. They have amazing food but not the most exciting ambiance. You can find good fondue at SayCheese! in the Zermatterhof Hotel.

 Where are the go-to places for apres ski?

Apres ski is huge in Zermatt. The best apres scene is at Cervo, a hotel outside the village. It is very cool and trendy, and everyone is outside on the decks overlooking the slopes. You can ski to it, which is excellent. There are also a few huts on the mountain that do apres ski. One of my favorite places is Hennu Stall, which often has a DJ or a live band – and lots of dancing!

What is the mountain like? How is the terrain?

It is a giant mountain. Someone explained it to me as – and I’m likely getting the math wrong here, but this is a general idea – 20% beginner terrain, 20% expert terrain, and the rest is solid intermediate. Many people say it is not the ideal mountain to visit if you are not a good skier. I disagree with that. I am a terrible skier, and, while I don’t do every run that everyone else does, there is still a fair amount for me to do. 

The best part of skiing in Zermatt is the view of the Matterhorn.

Another incredible experience people do is skiing in Cervinia, Italy. You ride in these modern, beautiful gondolas (some are blinged out with Swarovski crystal) up to the top of the Matterhorn. You can have lunch there – we’ve been to Foyer des Guides and Chalet Etoile – and there is a magnificent view of Cervinia. Then you can ski home on the longest run in Europe. My family loved that as it is twenty-two kilometers of uninterrupted trail. Taking the gondola back is also an option if you aren't skiing.

You were there in December. How were the conditions?

It was excellent skiing this year. Last Christmas, we went to a mountain that was all mud and no snow. Because of the high altitude, we thought we'd have better conditions at Zermatt. The snow was excellent.

Did you hire ski guides? What company did you use? 

We hired three guides for our group. The good skiers would go with one, my friend and I with another, and her kids with the third. They were terrific and could tailor themselves to what you are looking for: a guide, an instructor, someone for moral support, or all of the above. The company name is Evolution Ski School.

Could you describe more about the feel of the town? What were the stores like? Did you do any shopping?

Walking around Zermatt’s village feels like you are in a fairytale book. Everything is just so cute. It is sizable, probably one of the biggest ski towns in the Alps. In Courchevel, you can walk to one end and back in a few minutes; Zermatt is much larger. For shopping, it is primarily local brands selling ski clothing. There is a Moncler and a Bogner, but no other luxury brand names you might find in other ski towns. Loro Piana had a pop-up while we were there.

What was the nightlife like? Do guests tend to dress up, or is it more casual?

Zermatt is very laidback. What I love about it is that everyone is in jeans, snow boots, and a jumper at night. I did not see one high heel the entire week I was there. 

For nightlife, there are several little bars around the town. Bands come and play live music; we must have seen live music four times during our stay. There are options when it comes to evening activities. For New Year's Eve, for instance, we went to a place that was more of a club. 

Do you plan to go back to Zermatt? 

We’ve booked a trip for next year and are staying at Mont Cervin.