Cartagena, Colombia
Welcome to my inaugural newsletter, and where better to start than the beautiful city of Cartagena. Salsa dancing, shopping, or simply enjoying the beaches – the trip reminded me how rewarding it is to embrace a new culture, and it left me wanting to share. Below you will find where to stay, what to eat, what to do – all of my insights and recommendations written out.
Before you arrive — plan ahead
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Visit Colombia’s immigration website here — to print the immigration form before your arrival and departure from Cartagena. Although the website may be a bit challenging to navigate, you will require this form for entering and exiting the country.
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Remember that while credit cards are widely accepted, having some cash on hand can be convenient, especially in smaller shops, markets, or for tipping. Consider getting Colombian pesos from your local US bank before traveling to Cartagena. In Cartagena, you can also find currency exchange booths, but ATMs are not very common.
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To arrange a guided tour of Cartagena, get in touch with local tour guide Belkin Martinez. You can reach Belkin on WhatsApp at +57 300 3454275.
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In Cartagena, you can receive a 19% VAT refund at the airport, although the process may have some quirks. Here's what you should keep in mind —
Carry a copy of your passport while shopping, as you'll need it during payment.
Most stores will email you a tax form within 24 hours. Print this form at your hotel and attach it to your receipt.
Before checking your luggage, visit the tax window at the airport. Present your forms and receipts for the purchased items at the tax window, and they will issue a refund to your credit card. Be sure to have your purchases on hand in case you need to present them to the officer.
Hotels
Casa San Agustin
At the moment, San Agustin is my favorite place in Cartagena. The boutique property is built around a courtyard with a small but inviting pool at its center. The hotel beautifully captures an authentic Colombian style with its breezy balconies and tall windows, which I absolutely love!
Guests who indulged in the onsite spa recommended communicating their preferred pressure level to the masseuse, as they can be quite firm. Although I didn't personally use the spa, I did enjoy an excellent in-room blowout arranged by the hotel.
Tip — treat yourself to a basket full of pandebono (Colombian cheese bread made with cassava or yuca flour) during breakfast!
Casa Pestagua
Casa Pestagua is the sister property to Casa San Agustin; however, it was still under construction and had not yet opened during our visit. While I heard there will be a gym at Casa Pestagua, it's worth noting that Casa San Agustin does not have a gym.
Psst — rumors suggest a future Four Seasons hotel in Cartagena
Sofitel Santa Clara
The Sofitel offers a vibrant and bustling atmosphere for those looking for a larger hotel experience. They serve a buffet breakfast, offer sweet treats from a dessert cart in the late afternoon, and have a vibrant bar scene in the evenings. If you're traveling with teenage kids or children who enjoy a spacious pool, Sofitel is an excellent choice to consider.
Restaurants
Go to La Cevicheria for lunch – it’s fantastic!
For dinner, consider Carmen. While the tasting room is decent, the main restaurant offers a much better vibe.
Juan del Mar is a great spot for lunch, but if you're a fan of live music, be sure to come for dinner. Don't forget to try the Limonade De Coco – a frothy sweet drink, perfect for warm days!
I had hoped to make it to Cafe Havana but ran out of time. However, I’ve heard this is the best spot to enjoy live music while salsa dancing!
Celele is considered one of the top restaurants in Cartagena and ranks high among the best restaurants in Latin America. The intimate space offers both tasting menus and a la carte options. While I found it to be very good and innovative, I would not describe it as over-the-top amazing.
I enjoyed the dinner at Alma in Casa San Augustin, although I did find the service to be slow. I highly recommend trying the octopus dish with truffles on top!
Tip — when you’re at the bar at Alma, try the pureed watermelon drink served in a martini glass with your choice of either vodka or tequila.
Bars
El Baron
El Baron is a trendy, small bar with a restaurant next door. Juan, the owner, is fantastic and gave us lessons on crafting delicious and beautiful cocktails!
Alquimico
Alquimico on the list of the World's Best 50 bars!
Tip — mixology classes are offered at both bars. We chose a private mixology class at El Baron and I highly recommend booking this in advance!
El Baluarte
El Baluarte has a stunning terrace overlooking the water, and is one of the most iconic spots in Cartagena
Tip — On your first evening, consider taking a 20-minute horse-drawn carriage tour through Cartagena's streets. Make sure to arrive in time to enjoy sunset cocktails here.
Experiences
Boating
Rent a boat for a day to explore the Rosario Islands, go snorkeling, and try paddleboarding. The boat company can arrange for paddleboards, but it's advisable to check the pricing and logistics beforehand.
We booked the Bavaria 44 through Boating Cartagena, and it proved to be an excellent choice for island hopping and exploration. This company also offers a really nice selection of light food options!
Taking a break at one of the beach clubs for lunch is a nice idea, but if you plan to spend the whole day on the boat, a larger option might provide more comfort.
Tip — If you're a fan of coconut water, you're in for a treat with AWAECOCO, one of the best coconut waters I've ever tasted. Remember to request it in advance when booking through Boating Cartagena!
Also, depending on the time of year, you should plan to depart from Cartagena before 9 AM for a smoother ride to the islands. Afternoons typically see stronger winds, so returning around 2:30 PM is a good idea. I recommend bringing non-drowsy Dramamine just in case!
Cooking Class
I highly recommend taking a private cooking class with Maria Delgado, the founder, chef, and owner of Lunatico Experience. The setting is picturesque, offering a view outside the walled city. Maria, a talented chef and teacher, makes it a truly exceptional experience!
Biking Tour
We did a 2-hour biking tour through the walled old city. This was an incredible opportunity to experience much of this area on a bike, including the trendy, artsy sister of Cartagena's old town, Getsmani. Our guide Belkin Martinez (# listed above) helped organize this experience.
Make sure to visit the umbrella road for a photo opportunity and explore the murals and street graffiti. While I have done this bike tour twice and really enjoyed it, I hesitate to recommend it due to the challenging traffic and cars. A walking tour of the same area might be a safer and a more relaxed option.
Salsa Lessons
While in Cartagena, you have to take salsa lessons! During our lesson, the instructors began by teaching us the basic steps and later paired us with local dance partners to help perfect our moves. If interested, either ask your hotel concierge or reach out to Belkin Martinez!
Tip — Casa San Agustin features an open solarium on the roof with a bar, making it the perfect setting for a group salsa class. They can even serve cocktails to you while you salsa!
Museo de Arte Moderno De Cartagena
Established in 1979, this museum sits outside the walled city near the clock tower. It showcases a small collection of Colombian and Cartagena-born artists. Alongside its permanent collection, the museum also features rotating exhibitions by newer artists. It is worth a quick stop for any art lover!
Beach Clubs
Cartagena offers several private beach clubs. These beach clubs have a casual, tropical aesthetic that's great for relaxing, swimming, and having lunch. If you can connect with a member of one of these clubs, they can add your name to the entrance list for access. We visited Punta Iguana, approximately 45 minutes from Cartagena, but I've also heard that Matimba Club and Spa is another excellent choice.
Punta Iguana
A laidback, tranquil private club where guests can either stay overnight or simply visit for lunch. They picked us up in a tender and brought us over just for a few hours. For lunch we had fish (freshly caught), and the views were lovely: cerulean waters framed by the relaxed decor of the resort.
Newly opened and only a 15-minute boat ride from Cartagena. We passed it while on the boat and it appears to be a good option for a 1-2 night stay or a day pass. It definitely exudes more of a large beach hotel feel.
Tip — I had heard about a resort called Hotel Las Islas. I haven’t seen it in person, but from pictures it looks chic and beachy if you are looking for another option by the water.
Shopping
This beautiful boutique offers designer labels such as Johanna Ortiz, Agua by Agua Bendita, and other Colombian designers. However, the availability of specific sizes may vary depending on the season, with stock sometimes being plentiful or limited.
Here, you'll discover exquisite feminine dresses and swimsuits with handmade embroidery. It's a great spot to purchase special and unique pieces.
To avoid confusion, it's worth noting that there's a more casual swimwear store by Agua Bendita a few doors down. If you're interested in the dresses, be sure to visit Agua by Agua Bendita.
This skincare brand is uniquely Colombian. You’ll feel like you've stepped into a combination of a Colombian/Parisian apothecary!
Tip — I loved their makeup remover, which has an oil-like texture but turns foamy when mixed with water.
A Colombia native, Tcherassi is famous for combining a modern flare with traditional craftsmanship in this luxury line. This shop felt a little hit or miss, but I did manage to find a gorgeous gingham dress.
A beautifully designed resort wear store featuring a rainbow of colors. With silky maxi dresses and vibrant bikinis, it is definitely worth a visit. If you're in need of a pick-me-up, there's a charming coffee stand at the front of the store!
Malva in La Serrezuela
I wasn't particularly impressed with this shopping mall, and while Malva was just okay, it did offer a variety of bathing suits and fun cover-ups. Interestingly, they had a good selection from one of my favorite bathing suit designers, Maygel Coronel. Although it's mentioned online that Maygel Coronel has a retail store in Cartagena, I had difficulty locating the physical retail space.
Down the street from Casa San Agustin and adjacent to Casa Chiqui, this delightful shop offers a wide array of Colombian handicrafts, including hats, bags, and tabletop decor. I couldn't resist purchasing some fantastic rainbow rattan placemats here!
Tip — Although this store may appear small at first, be sure to walk through the coffee shop, as the store continues.
MAAJI
A brand that specializes in bathing suits and summer-wear that is all made here in Colombia. While I was not familiar with it before, it proved to be a great find for those on the trip with younger kids. The prices of the children's bathing suits were significantly less than what you'd typically find in the US or online, and many of their pieces are reversible — so double the wear!
This boutique has multiple branches, and I wasn't impressed with the merchandise in most of them. However, the Agua de Leon located at CL. San Pedro Claver #31-18 had a good selection of interesting pieces. Additionally, there's an Agua De Leon kids' store in La Serrezuela Mall featuring adorable swimsuits!
Tip — Keep an eye out for clutches in vibrant, fun colors made in Colombia by A Rinkel. They are a lot less expensive in Cartagena!
Cartagena is simply captivating. Laid-back yet also charming, it is a city in which you can really immerse yourself: savor some ceviche, chat with local shop owners, explore the islands. There is so much beauty and so much to do in Cartagena!